Gary's long walk to Everest has begun

August 20, 2005

Sunrise 18 Aug, 05 - 06:00 "Here we are aroud 6 am after starting out at 4:40 am. Sunrise was spectacular! The sun rising over our backs as we made our way towards Gray Peak." Image live over Contact 3.0, courtesy of Gary. In the end, even Gary's strong body will need major help: "My heart function has declined to a point where I have been evaluated for Cardiac Transplantation at Massachusetts General Hospital in Boston, Ma. I was admitted for pre-transplant evaluation in May of 2004." Image courtesy of the expedition. "I've been getting used to altitude and spent time at 12,000 feet at Long's Peak. Fresh snow fell above 13,000 feet. This is going to be the hardest thing I have ever attempted. I have my oxygen and could have used it today.." Image live over Contact 3.0 courtesy of the expedition. It all began on Matterhorn, in 2003. The peak is K2 for a small woman with a transplanted heart. Kelly Perkins looked into the camera and stated, "You can have Everest, Gary. This is enough for me." Image live over Contact 2.0, courtesy of Kelly's expedition. As of 9:20am this morning, Gary summited Gray's Peak in Colorado (14,270 feet) - without oxygen. Painting of trail to Gray's Peak, courtesy of Pastel Society. Gary sailing Nirvana last year. "I have come to deal with illness and work within its limitations and try to expand them. I am also showing heart patients and others with disabilities that you CAN live life with a disability. Those with AICD's like me, life can almost be normal save for the hunk of metal under your skin." Gary Swain climbs with his cousins, Michael and Gordon Brown. Michael (Serac Films), is a four time Everest summiteer with 5 Emmy awards (Michael did "Farther than the eye can see" with the blind Erik W). Gordon was one of two to complete the first full descent of the Nile River from source to sea, featured on IMAX. Gordon also has 5 Emmy awards for cinematography.

As of 9:20am this morning, Gary summited Gray's Peak in Colorado (14,270 feet) - without oxygen. The big deal? It was a prep climb for Everest. The bigger deal still? Gary has no heart. And - oh yeah, one more thing: he did it because he wants yours.

You can have Everest!

It all began on Matterhorn, one late August day in 2003. The peak is a demanding challenge for most any climber, but it's K2 for a small woman with a transplanted heart. At one point on the climb, while scaling a steep, technical rock wall, Kelly Perkins looked into the camera and stated, "You can have Everest, Gary. This is enough for me."

The quote became a headline at ExWeb, but it was a personal message to expedition photographer Michael Brown's cousin, Gary Swain. His dream - to climb Everest. Whilst Kelly had a donated heart already beating in her chest, the situation was actually much worse for Gary - he is still waiting and has been doing so for quite some time now. Each day is a victory, and Gary is in a hurry to live.

The climbing Cyborg

Gary Swain is 48 years old. At some point, when is not clear, a virus attacked the muscle tissue of his heart. Over time the heart became enlarged and started to function poorly. Gary had symptoms already prior to 1999, but they were mainly for irregular heart beats and heart races (over 350 beats per minute) and periodic episodes of fainting. In 1999, the condition became much worse.

When you get a heart attack, the docs shock you back to life with a defibrillator (or any electrical wiring if you are in a bad place).

But Gary's heart was so weak that he became a cyborg: The doc's implanted a defibrillator straight on top his heart. The device can restore normal heart rhythm through detecting and then shocking the heart back into a normal rhythm. Imagine the feeling when that happens. And it does, once in a while. But Gary is grateful; "Without it, I might not be writing this," he blogs back from the mountain over Contact 3.0.

"Life changes in a way that you never thought it could"

Gary's heart is now basically a big loose floppy bag that doesn't pump very well - only 18 and 30 % of its volume on average. He is starved for oxygen and short of breath. "Imagine having this happen to you by just walking a one flight of stairs. Walking to your car. Putting out the trash. You life changes dramatically. Those things that you used to be able to do at least for most, can no longer be enjoyed. The simple things become tasks and life changes in a way that you never thought it could."

There is no cure. Gary must have a new heart, and stay alive while he waits. Exercise is key. People have two ways of producing energy. Aerobic and Anaerobic energy. Anaerobic means 'without oxygen' - the body is working so hard that the demands for oxygen and fuel exceed the rate of supply and the muscles have to rely on the stored reserves of fuel.

Climbing without oxygen

"Obviously, with such a decreased heart function, my Aerobic threshold is extremely low. I become winded easily if I don't pace myself properly. This is where my anaerobic threshold comes into play.

My threshold is off the scales which compensates for lack of Aerobic threshold. There are many people who have the same heart measurements as I do, but are bed ridden due to a low anaerobic threshold. I am so blessed for years of exercise which has allowed me to live with my disease."

But in the end, even Gary's strong body will need major help: "My heart function has declined to a point where I have been evaluated for Cardiac Transplantation at Massachusetts General Hospital in Boston, Ma. I was admitted for pre-transplant evaluation in May of 2004."

Before his plan to climb Torreys' (14,267 feet) and Gray Peak (14,278 feet) in Colorado, Gary said: "I will carry oxygen should I need it and I'll be wearing my heart monitor as well. We do not want my defibrillator going off at altitude. For someone like me with such a low heart function, it will be almost as hard for me to make summit as it would be for a healthy person to make the summit of Everest."

"I am doing this for several reasons"

His condition is very serious, and many die while waiting. Gary has no time to lose: "You are probably wondering what in the world I am doing after reading all of the above! Those who know me know that I do not give in to my challenges! I turn things around and challenge my challenges so to speak."

"I have always been extremely athletic and have a very active life and adventurous life. I do a tremendous amount of sailing, hiking and travel when I can. Many look at me and do not believe I am sick. I don't feel sick for the most part. I have come to deal with illness and work within its limitations and try to expand them. I am also showing heart patients and others with disabilities that you CAN live life with a disability. Those with AICD's like me, life can almost be normal save for the hunk of metal under your skin."

Save a life and become a hero!

"My second reason is this: In this country there is a tremendous lack of transplantable organs. There are just not enough organ donors. If you are reading this, please consider signing an organ donor card. Be a hero and save a life! The New England Organ Donor Bank is a great place to sign up! (Links section ed note). There is a link which allows you to order a donor card. If you do not have one, place sign one today! Save a life and become a hero!"

Do it. Meanwhile, Gary will climb another mountain for you. And he won't stop until the summit. Of Everest.

Gary climbs with his cousins, Michael and Gordon Brown. Michael (Serac Films), is a four time Everest summiteer with 5 Emmy awards (Michael did "Farther than the eye can see" with the blind Erik W). Gordon was one of two to complete the first full descent of the Nile River from source to sea, featured on IMAX. Gordon also has 5 Emmy awards for cinematography.

Several years ago, a rare virus left Kelly dying with congestive heart failure. She received a life-saving transplant in 1995 and, just 10 months after her surgery, began her post-transplant climbs. Since 1996, she has climbed 8,842-foot Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, Matterhorn, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt Fuji where, as a tribute, Craig - her husband - brought the ashes of Kelly's heart donor.

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This article posted September 18, 2005.